NXT MTB: Shimano SLX

Monday, May 26, 2008

Shimano SLX

Hello! to all MTBikers, on behalf of NXT we would like to apologise for taking so long to update this blog with new post. It has been a very hectic 3 weeks for the moderator. This time around the product to be reviewed is new Shimano SLX (M-6) series. It has caught the intention of many mountain enthusiasts.

Below each picture is the view from the moderator - novice opinion je!!!

Groupset Shimano SLX

Hydraulic Brake Lever - looks mean!

Caliper - Matte black ... fuhhh!!!

This remind me of XTR's crankset - mod.

Looks like XT08 twin.

RD ... All flat black - Wooosh!!!

Rear Hub

FR Hub

Rotor

Below is the review by Bikeradar.com aka MBUK Magazine.

SHIMANO SLX

There's a real split in current Shimano groups between the punchy feel and styling of XTR and Deore XT, and the more soft focus operation of Deore LX and Deore. No surprise then that the new SLX group brings a lot of Shimano's latest technologies to a mid-price group, while adding several new ideas to the mix too.

Lighter than previous LX in several places, but apparently tougher than Deore XT in others, SLX promises to be perfect for the new breed of ballsy cross-country/all-mountain bikes that we're all ending up riding. But what are the specifics of this bold Shimano statement?

The signature piece is the new optional double chainset. With a steel pedal insert and new Hollowtech architecture, Shimano are claiming it's twice as tough as new Deore XT. That means seriously tough too, seeing as XT is already widely used on the downhill circuit.

The middle ring goes up to 36 teeth so you can pedal places properly rather than like a trials rider, while a polycarbonate bash guard keeps weight all day friendly. The outside face is polished XTR style to stop it looking knackered after the first ride.

Another really nice detail is the two new matching double chainset specific front mechs - two of no less than six front mech options! These use a deeper shorter cage with a clipped tail for better clearance on big tyres, and they can operate from a wider range of seat tube angles. Great for bike designers determined to use wonky geometry. A non reinforced triple chainset is available too, complete with XT style composite and steel middle ring for a long and happy drive train life.
At the back end the rear mech gets the Shadow treatment to tuck it out of the way of trouble, which saves 45g over current Deore LX.

Completing the new shifting suite are Rapidfire pods which apparently share the exact same internals as XT. (Dual Control is not available, although Shimano denied there was anything ominous about this in terms of a future for single lever mountain bike systems.) That's certainly good news if the current slightly limp and quiet click of LX and Deore isn't up your street.

Still on the handlebars, the new SLX brakes get the cam-assisted Servo Wave system debuted on Deore XT for extra pad clearance and power. We're still not entirely sure about Servo Wave to be honest, but we do like the sound of a new brake lever. It's broader, has a more secure 'hook' to the tip and extra clearance behind to avoid its current appetite for crushing first fingers if you're an index finger braker. This new lever shape will be retrofitting to Deore XT and XTR soon too.

Finally although there's no news of a complete wheelset yet, front and rear Centerlock hubs will be available, complete with a 20mm axle front option. No new 15mm E Thru version though, that just appears on Deore XT and XTR hubs.

Meanwhile Dore LX will be remodelled into full 'comfortable cruiser' format complete with new 48-tooth chainset compatible front mech and dynamo hub for LED front lights. Shimano have even revived the V brake power modulator concept for the dentally nervous.

So to recap, new SLX is:

About the same weight as current Deore LX, but with a tougher build, snappier all round performance and much meaner aesthetics.

Shadow rear mech, sharp shifting two way Rapidfire, Servo Wave braking and 20mm front axle options drop down from Deore XT.

SLX debuts new 36/22 double chainset and dedicated front mech designs, plus a revised brake lever shape.

The Shadow rear mech, reinforced 'double strength' crank with polished face mean SLX has the potential to build up as a seriously tough grouptest without destroying your bank balance.
It's also possibly a hint of things to come higher up the 'extreme groupset' hierarchy later in the year.

1 comment:

Unknown said...: nice share...keep it up...

regards,
Big Ocean Fish
www.bigoceanfish.com; September 18, 2009 at 12:29 PM

NXT MTB

We welcome any suggestions from all of you in objective to improve mountainbiking scene here in Malaysia generally and Perlis specifically. As we can see nowadays the public has started to realize the importance of exercising and one of the way is cycling. It doesn't matter if it is road cycling or off road cycling as long as we give a hard time to our heart and let the sweat flows from our body. So, don't stop cycling and let us make this scene as big as ever. Cheers!

"NXT WELCOMES EVERYBODY "

RIDE SAFELY AND INTELLIGENTLY.

Setting Your MTB for Race!

Setting/Preparing you MTB for race.

Let's Try This At Home.

Step 1
Remove any additional accessories from your bike including racks, reflectors, mirrors, bells or lights (leave lights on if you'll be racing at night).

Step2
Inspect the frame, fork and all components on the bike for cracks or other signs of trouble. Repair or replace any obvious problems.

Step3
Set your saddle height by placing your heel on your pedal (in your riding shoes) and raising the seat up so that your leg is straight on the bottom of the pedal stroke (6 o'clock position). Your seat should never be so high that your hips rock when you pedal. You may want to lower your seat if the course is very technical and has many steep downhill slopes, but you may pay for that on the uphill portions. When your seat is at the optimum height it allows you to get full leg extension and full use of your leg muscles.

Step4
Set your saddle position - start by having it level with the ground and try it that way for a little while. If you are putting too much weight on your hands, raise the saddle's nose by a degree or two. If the nose is uncomfortable and you experience any numbness, lower the nose a degree or two. It may take a while to find the perfect saddle position for you.

Step5
Set your saddle's fore/aft position by adjusting it so that when your are seated and have your pedals in the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, your forward pedal spindle is in line with the small bump just below your kneecap.

Step6
Position your handlebars so that they are between an inch and 2 1/2 inches below the seat. The lower they are, the more control you'll have when climbing, and higher bars give more control when descending. Look for the perfect balance of the two to find the best handlebar position for you. You can adjust your handlebar height with riser or flat bars, different stem heights, and spacers under the stem.

Step7
Be sure that the ends of your handlebars are covered by the ends of the grips or are filled with plugs.

Step8
Position bar ends anywhere between parallel to the ground and a 45-degree angle from this parallel. Go to the lower end of the spectrum for more performance-oriented positioning.

Step9
Inflate your tires to a tire pressure that works with your weight, the tires that you are using and the course conditions.

Step10
Choose clipless pedals over platform pedals with toe straps. Although clipless pedals are a bit intimidating at first, you get a better connection with the bike, and they are much easier to get in and out of than toe straps.

Step11
Check to make sure that the chain is clean, lubed and not stretched. Chains stretch over time, and this will lead to bad shifting and gear slippage.

Step12
Check the front and rear derailleurs to make sure that they are shifting properly and cables are in good condition. Bad shifting is not only very frustrating but can also blow the race for you.

Step13
Be sure that your brake cables, pads and levers are in good condition and working well.

Step14
Turn your handlebars from side to side and see whether there is any play in the headset or whether you hear any grinding noises. Disassemble, clean, grease and adjust if necessary.

Step15
Check your suspension fork for smooth performance and no play in the fork legs. If your fork isn't sliding easily, refer to your owner's manual or check with a local shop for maintenance.

Step16
Ride your bike after doing any adjustments or repairs. You'll want to feel comfortable and confident at the start line.

Tips & Warnings

i.) The best upgrade that you can make for better performance is lighter tires and wheels. The rotational weight has a huge impact on how a bike accelerates and climbs. Start with kevlar-beaded tires and then go with a nice light wheel set. You'll notice the difference on your first ride.

ii·) When selecting a tire for racing, choose a tread design that works with your riding style and the course conditions. Semislick tires are great for racing, but they do take some getting used to, and they aren't for all riders and courses.

iii·) Higher tire pressure gives less rolling resistance and reduces the chance of pinch flats. Lower tire pressure gives better traction.

iv·) Many full-suspension bikes have different settings for the rear suspension, ranging from firm to soft. The firmest setting is usually best for cross-country racing.

v·) If you're unsure of how to check or adjust anything on your bike, such as the shifting or the suspension, bring your bike to a local shop.

vi·) Mountain bike racing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.